The fashion industry is in a complete state of flux at the moment. So much change in such little time. The revolving door of creative directors keeps on spinning and many brands are still ironing out the logistics of their newly adopted "see now, buy now" format.
Some immediate edits to the industry came to light during New York Fashion Week. Jonathan Saunders for example debuted his first collection as creative director of Diane von Furstenburg, Coach continued to cement their massively overhauled more "urban" aesthetic and Oscar de la Renta showcased their latest collection before Monse's Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia take over as creative directors next season. So let's see how these collections have set the brands up for next season.
Jonathan Saunders at DvF
Having stepped down from his namesake label late last year the world was all atwitter with rumour and speculation about where Jonathan Saunders would go next. Dior was top of the rumour mill, (after the abrupt departure of Raf Simons) but it later transpired that he'd be taking the reigns at Diane von Furstenberg and everyone seemed let out a collective "Of course!" though no one saw it coming, it is such a perfect, natural fit for both Saunders as an artist and DVF as a brand.
As we all know, there's only so far a wrap dress can go. Though iconic and still successful, DVF was in dire need of a breath of fresh air and this season - it got one big gulp of it. The woman herself is incredibly provocative and a true revolutionary, and the brand was seemingly coming more and more distant from its origin.
Releasing only 30 looks from the wider collection which hits stores next year, there was no big "show" (which the brand has come synonymous for on the NYFW schedule) instead there was an intimate presentation to client and key media - it seems that this now is the go-to method to make a "statement" in the industry, to make it clear that things are a-changing. It is also a rather shrewd way to not seem over confident, to ensure that Saunders walks before he runs and irons out any issues that may occur before even considering a large scale, media-frenzied global launch.
As for the collection itself, it is as expected - beautiful. A perfect example of how a new creative director can inject a much needed shot of adrenaline into a brand and showcase their artistry, their voice, without it being so far removed from the brand's history. It seems to be a truly harmonious pairing working in complete synchrony.
Bringing his signature playful patterns, shapes and colour combinations, Saunders made the collection feel playful yet never junior, keeping an editorial eye and a premium edge . Debuting with mixed separates of skirts and pants, alongside the glamorous dresses expected of a Furstenberg collection, Saunders was clear to always keep the DVF woman in mind.
This season, after years and years of studying an adoring fashion I uttered a phrase I'd never uttered before "I'm really excited for the Coach show". No brand has seen such an equally rapid and successful reincarnation as Coach has. Firstly edging towards it with bringing on young actress Chloe Grace Moretz as an ambassador, the brand then exploded into a gritty, urban, covetable New York brand. As I've mentioned on this blog before, though Coach needed a lift and it was probably inevitable, I can't help but feel that because of the future of DKNY being uncertain and Michael Kors becoming a global megaforce, Coach now has a prime opportunity, ripe for the picking, to be the quintessential New York brand.
Mixing studded spiked boots and heavy fringed leather outerwear with flirty, ethereal floral dresses, Coach are steadily defining the modern New York woman - a contradiction, a mix of uptown and downtown with an eclectic taste and a ready attitude.
Oscar de le Renta & Monse
Oscar de la Renta collection deserves a brief mention here as the house is on the cusp of great change. This season was it's last without a famed creative director as next season, Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia, founders of the stunning brand Monse will take on the daunting task of stirring a brand built by one of the world's greatest fashion designers (no pressure guys).
Though the duo will be combining their talents and applying them to the de la Renta spirit, we can of course excitedly speculate by looking at the two collections (Monse's and Oscar's) to try to envision what the Oscar de la Renta of 2017 might look like.
While de la Renta has a a refined, polished glamour, Monse's staple aesthetic this season had a DIY attitude. Mixed prints of various shapes and sizes teamed with clingy sequins offered a dichotomy of texture and silhouette. Though it's unlikely we'll see anything like a boyfriend shirt/disco skirt combo on the de la Renta runway, it's exciting to see how playful and experimental Kim and Garcia are, they seem perfectly capable of infusing some much needed vitality into the Oscar de la Renta brand and start an entirely new chapter in the house's history.
Oscar de la Renta
All images from Vogue Runway